Reasons we chose this product:

  • Easily adjustable while driving

  • Trouble free location

  • Shatterproof construction

  • Pencil beam or spot with a twist

 

    Installed on Offroadaz's Jeep

Ah, the narrow beam of Jeep headlights.  Sure they haven't done you wrong, but stay out on the trail past your bedtime and you'll be left wanting more.  Yeah, you can use your stock fogs for a while, but even thought they do give you more side to side visibility, they still don't have much distance in them.  There's always the option of a light bar, but even if you get the rotating one that you can lower so you can park in the garage, you can bet that one day you'll come across a wayward tree limb that may try to claim your lights for itself.  The windshield hinges seem to offer a great option on where to mount your lights, plus they can be reached easily enough to adjust them or to zero in on any meandering animals that you may want to spot.  The hinge mounts are beefy enough, but you're still going to need some sturdy lights, just in case they should get smacked (and they will). 

Chris never buys anything until he has done extensive research on his soon to be investment, and after looking around, he zeroed himself in on the Australian born LightForce lights.  Tested to take a shotgun blast at a few paces away, their shatterproof lenses are supposed to take any kind of beating you could... shake a stick at.  Plus LightForce's design, like a Maglight, lets you focus from a pencil beam to a spot with just a turn of the lens itself.  They also ship them with 2 different filters for each light so you can use them straight out of the box as a driving light or a spot light.
The install for any light is pretty simple, it's the running and concealment of the wires, you want to do right.  No one wants to drill a ton of holes in their Jeep or have wires all exposed and looking rigged up.  We decided to save a few bucks and just get a universal light wiring kit from a local 4x4 shop.  It came with everything including the relay and switch.  Most switches are lighted themselves for ease of use, so we didn't want to run it straight to the battery or the switch would always be illuminated and drawing current so we spliced into lead going to the brights.  If you grab onto the fat braid of wires running on the driver's side of the body under the hood to the lights, you can just hook your wire into the red and white one and be all set.  We then ran the wire into the firewall to the switch and ran the wires for the lights under and to the top of the dash.  At this point, we got to fold Chris's windshield down for the first time so we could run the wires out for the lights.  Where the windshield separates there is a gasket.  We cut a little of it away on each side, just enough for the wires to get through without the windshield pinching them when folded back into position.  Doing it this way left only the small amount of wire from the windshield to the lights showing, and we put that plastic wire shield stuff over that and the connections at the lights so it still looked professional.  If you go with the LightForce lights, they come with a breather hose, to allow them to remain as bright as possible without getting as hot as possible.  We were able to tuck that all that away too down through and under the mount so it wasn't noticeable either.  Oh, and the place Chris picked out for his switch was perfect.  It's not in the way of anything else and he has room for at least one more.  He usually leaves the switch on and just uses his brights switch to control them all.