*This install dealt with a Spal fan but the instructions would be similar for any electric fan in a TJ

Chris's Jeep had been getting pretty hot.  With the temps in an AZ summer easily hitting 115, the heat was getting the better of his stock cooling system out on the trails, not to mention the fact that his prone to leak Jeep radiator, was slowly doing just that.  At first he decided on just adding a larger radiator, but the Griffin he ordered from Novak Adapters didn't clear his mechanical fan. 

 *!*!* Comments deleted due to Novak Adapters threatining me with a defamation lawsuit *!*!*     Just another example why you should order from anyone but Novak.

Anyway like I said, we started with a larger radiator.  Aluminum, Double-pass, high efficiency with integrated oil cooler, with 1" core.  Instead of going through the trouble of shipping it back and getting a new one, we went about making it fit.  With the TJ there's not much you can do to scoot the radiator up further towards the grill, so we looked at replacing the belt driven fan with an electric one. 

  If you do your homework on the subject, you'll find lots of Wranglerites and other off road folks who have switched over to the E side.  The benefits to this set up include a little extra horsepower (about 15HP) by taking the load off the engine, getting the fan closer to the rad for better cooling, more CFM's (Cubic foot of air per minute, used for measuring amount of air like gallons of water), and you can switch it off for water crossings, which believe it or not we actually have around here.  And, since we can mount the fan right on the rad, we could use a shallower fan to solve our fitment problems.  More on the benefits here in DC's technology section..

So by researching ahead of time we found most people recommending Ford Taurus or Lincoln Mark VIII or VII's around the 90-95 persuasion.  They're strong little fans that come with their own shrouds and fit right up to the Wrangler's rad.  And maybe the best part is that you can find them at just about any junkyard, and if you pull it yourself (or find it in the back seat) it ought to run you no more than 30 bucks.  We snagged one off a VII, paid the $30 and returned to the garage- to find we were foiled yet again.  Even with trimming it would put us too close to the engine because of the deeper Griffin. 

The fan and the engine should theoretically have a solid 3/4 to 7/8 inch in between them to keep them from ever contacting.  With the 3in rad , instead of the 2 1/2 stock one, we only had 4 1/2 inches to work with for a fan.  We figured the JY fan we had found could be shaved down to a about 4 1/2in, but that would obviously be cutting it to close (even if we shaved the old fan's mounting threads on the face of the water pump).  So Chris did a little looking on the net, found the the Flex-a-lite fans and a few others, but then came across Spal racing that had some good shallow fans for half the price of the other guys.

He went ahead and got their 16" High Performance Straight Blade Puller Fan for $135.95 (part #30102036).  This fan puts out 2360 CFM while comparatively a Taurus fan will put out around 2000; either is more than enough to cool a V6.  The Spal is less than 3 1/2 inches deep which gave us plenty more room to work with.  Now, we could finally begin the install.

You obviously have to take out the old radiator and fan as we already had done.  The fan comes right off by removing  the huge nut between it and the water pump.

Before setting the rad in, you should mount the fan, so you can actually see what you are doing.  The Spal comes with 4 brackets that can be used in a multitude of ways to mount it to the radiator.  We weren't going to need the old shroud so we used the shroud mounting holes and bolts to hold down the brackets.  We didn't need all the length of the brackets, so we trimmed of the ends to fit better. 

Now that the fan is secure you can drop the whole thing in.  The Griffin did come with the right welded on brackets to mount it to the stock location.  So we got it tightened down and rehooked up all the hoses.  With the fan centered on the radiator it actually clears the engine better because the water pump no longer lines right up to the high center of the fan motor.

You still have to use your old reservoir, and we found it squeezed in pretty well alongside the new rad.  We "fabricated" a quick bracket out of the extra straps we had gotten with the fan but any metal strapping would be fine.  After hooking up our bracket we were sure the bottle wasn't going anywhere.  We also added a strip of foam gasket between the rad and res to prevent too much rubbing.

Now to make it work...