I need to replace the seals in the front so I gotta pull it. Anyone interested in coming over to help or laugh while I work?

I'm thinking I'll do it on sat the 28th or sat the 5th.

sweathog wrote:I need to replace the seals in the front so I gotta pull it. Anyone interested in coming over to help or laugh while I work?

I'm thinking I'll do it on sat the 28th or sat the 5th.

Saturday the 28th is going to be the Ultra4 National Championship and its going to be held in Congress, AZ instead of Vegas. I haven't posted anything yes as it's just been developing, but I would love to have a big HG crew out for the Ultra4 mini-KOH National Championships. :-) Shannon Campbell, Nick Nelson, Loren Healey, and all the big names will be there, plus Andrew is racing and so am I...

I think I can fit in my old dress now

alanzona wrote:Saturday the 28th is going to be the Ultra4 National Championship and its going to be held in Congress, AZ instead of Vegas. I haven't posted anything yes as it's just been developing, but I would love to have a big HG crew out for the Ultra4 mini-KOH National Championships. :-) Shannon Campbell, Nick Nelson, Loren Healey, and all the big names will be there, plus Andrew is racing and so am I...

cool, I'll shoot for the 5th then, if anyone can make it.

Skatch, I prefer you in a pant suit.

Im helping a "I have been your friend for 20 years and have come to payson to save your ass" friend move sat morning.

No worries. I'm sure it's doable alone. I have a jack and all the tools, so I'll see how far I get.

sweathog wrote:No worries. I'm sure it's doable alone. I have a jack and all the tools, so I'll see how far I get.

If you need help Sun afternoon let me know. I should be free

How did it go?

I ended up only spending a couple hours on it. Disconnected most things except for the bell housing. Starter, flywheel, linkages, all that stuff out of the way. I should have more time this weekend and am probably taking the holiday off on Monday.

spent a couple more hours on it this morning. It came out pretty easily. I want to replace the large o-ring for the pump as well as the front pump seal, but I can't seem to locate a bridge puller (like an oversized steering wheel puller) to get the pump out. I'll try a few more places tomorrow.

Finally had a chance to work on it again. Pulled the pump without the puller. Just used a couple bolts and pry bars. Seals came out easy and went back together fine. Knocked the Spector shaft a little but I don't think its anywhere that the seal sits. Tranny is bolted back in. Still have linkages, cooler lines, and a few small things.

OK, so this sat for a few weekends, but all in all it was only about a days worth of work, maybe a little more. This would have been a great write up, but I never remember to take pictures along the way.

First I assume you can remove and reinstall the transmission. Just remember to get the right sockets for the top 2 bolts and lower the tranny a few inches to give plenty of room for access. I left the transfercase attached and it wasn't any more difficult, still stayed on the jack just fine. I did all the work under the jeep with the transmission just lowered all the way on the jack. If I didn't have a lift I think it would have had to come out all the way.

I had fluid leaking from the front at the inspection plate and producing a nice thick smoke screen on the freeway while headed home from our last group wheeling trip. I couldn't tell if it was the front pump seal on the pump shaft or if it was from the o-ring around the pump body. I figured since it was out, I might as well replace both since the vehicle has 200k miles. No one carries the pump body o-ring so I had to order it online. The AW4 and the toyota A340 are the same Aisin Warner product. $8 in parts and $5 in shipping.

With the transmission lowered and secured to the jack with straps of chains, you will need to slide the torque converter out and set it aside. No you'll need to remove the 7 bolts that hold the pump body in. They come out real easy and you don't have to remove the bell housing to slide out the pump.


To properly pull the front pump you need a large bridge type puller that spand 7+ inches and plenty of reach too. I found a puller at grainger that I was considering buying, but then I found this video where a guy pulled his pump just using spare bolts. It's a ford transmission, but same concept.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/NmlKjXDOIno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I figured it was worth a shot instead of spending $200 on a tool that I would use only once, especially when I've only spent $13 so far. You need 10mm x 1.25 bolts to thread in, I used some short ones and threaded them in 4 or 5 turns. There wasn't a ton of room and a straight pull didn't work, but a slide hammer on vice grips would have been perfect. I used a couple small pry bars (one was actually a nail puller) and worked it out with those. It took a little while trying to get the right leverage on the bolts, but it finally came out. The old o-ring gets pulled off and the new one put on, apply Vaseline before sliding it back in. I also removed the pump seal while it was out. Be careful, you have to collapse the seal and I scratched the pump shaft twice. I don't think it's an issue because the seal doesn't sit there and it's at the end of the spline where I don't think there is any contact with the torque convertor. After it's out, line the new one up and tap it in gently. An axle nut socket works perfectly so that you don't have to tap on the seal directly. From here you just do everything again, but backwards. Well you're still frontwards, but you do everything in reverse order. I didn't find torque specs for the pump body but it wasn't real tight, I just snugged them and gave another 1/2 turn. Watch that the o-ring slips in and doesn't get smashed or cut. Make sure the torque convertor seats all the way, It should feel like it clunks and slides back twice. If you think it's in, spin it a few more times. Then wrestle the transmission back into place, hook up the linkages, cooler lines, flywheel and driveshafts.

I drove it around a little yesterday and it hasn't leaked yet. I need to take it on the freeway and see how it does there.

For reference. In section A: 510 is the pump body. 070 is the front pump seal (I think). 311 is the pump body o-ring.

Way cool Cant wait to put it under a wheeling trip test!

fatbob309 wrote:Way cool Cant wait to put it under a wheeling trip test!

^^^ This!

Good job, my brother.

thanks guys. just drove it to the gym and back, took the long way home with a few miles on the freeway and no smoke. there was a drip under there at the inspection plate but not sure if it may have been from the torque convertor when I put it back together. I can live with a small leak. I'll drive it to work on Fri and see how it does with 20-30 mins on the freeway.

So when's out next wheeling trip? Mike, do you have 4 wheel drive yet?

sweathog wrote:So when's out next wheeling trip? Mike, do you have 4 wheel drive yet?

Yes, please. When's the next trip?

sweathog wrote:So when's out next wheeling trip? Mike, do you have 4 wheel drive yet?

Yes, please. When's the next trip?