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Trailer: is this a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
#1
So I picked up a 4'x6' trailer the other day. I've been shopping for the last 3 weeks looking for a small trailer that had a 3500# axle and that could be lifted a bit to match the ride height of my Jeep. The problem I ran into was that either

1. it was the right size but had a 2000# axle.
2. it had the 3500# axle but the trailer itself was too wide and/or long.
3. it was what I wanted, but was $1200+.

Regardless of the trailer, I wanted it to have the same 5x5 bolt pattern so I could buy 3 more matching tires and share them with my Jeep (especially the spares).

I finally found one that I thought it would work. It was a home made trailer that was 4'x6' and was told it had a 3500# axle. Possibly... it looked beefy and had a 6x5.5 bolt pattern. It had large leaf springs and coil springs. The height was perfect for my Jeep and I wouldn't have to lift it. I found a company that makes a 2" spacer that will adapt the bolt pattern to the 5x5 I need, plus give me a little wider stance. These billet 6061 aluminum spacers are about $60 each.

The concern I had was that the trailer seemed to have been built by a lazy person. The coil springs are welded to the axle and the trailer tub. The U-bolts that held the axle to the leaf springs were also welded in place. The tailgate wasn't lined up perfectly, so there is a small gap. The sheet metal side walls had holes where the fenders use to be mounted. He cut out the welds that held he fender and bolted them higher to allow for the lift. The sheet metal he used on the bottom wasn't welded in properly and there is an obvious hump in the middle. Lastly, there was a lot of surface rust in the trailer.

Overall, very crude, but functional. I took it out on Sunday and went wheeling to a shooting spot. The trailer did very well. I only paid $450 for it, and it does what I need.

So, now I am torn. Do I fix all these errors and spend more $$$ making it perfect, or should I just live with what it is... a crude functioning trailer.

At the minimum, I plan on removing all the pain/rust from the inside, re-weld the sheet metal flooring, then paint/roll the inside with Herculiner.

Here are some pics.





















#2
Speaking from experience, and I have lots when it comes to trailers.. lol I've built several from scratch. It really just depends on how picky you are. I'm really not sure why he has coil springs anywhere near that thing, they are completely useless. It already has leaf springs, so why put the coil springs? anyways.. I would be shocked if that axle was actually rated for 3500, and unless I"m mistaken it looks like the ubolts aren't even bolted to the axle? which would make the entire axle only attached by just the coil springs? That is interring to be quite honest. For safety and liability reasons that needs to be fixed ASAP. From the pictures, the trailer needs a lot of work to make it even remotely safe, and even more to make it look decent.. I would do both. If you need help, or are looking for someone to do some of the work let me know :) for some reason I love building trailers.
#3
Those u-bolts are not bolted on the axle. They are welded. I agree, this should get some overhaul. I appreciate your offer and gladly accept your help. I will PM you tonight and get a game plan together. I have a March 2012 deadline
#4
I'll look for your pm. As long as money Dosent slow you down, march is a easy deadline
#5
Looks like mostly labor vs. parts $ to fix the springs. Properly bolt down the leaf springs and remove the coil springs. That might allow you to weld in some shock perchs for offroad use.
#6
I agree. I was planning on sanding down the inside and applying Herculiner, but as crappy as it is, it may be better to just cut the tac welds and remove the rusty panel, and probably the two side panels since they have holes in them. It would save some time. Besides, the bottom piece wasn't even welded on properly. It's bulging.

I "think" that they coils were added by the original builder, as a way to give the trailer a lift. That would explain the holes in the side panels (from the relocation of the fenders) and the sad attempt at lengthening the leaf spring shackles with spacers. I do appreciate the extra height, though. I would like to keep the existing height. Maybe Avis can figure out how to do that without the use of the coil springs.

I saw some other builders use the addition of shocks. Something similar to the Canadian M101 or US M416 trailers. Here is a guy who built his own. I would have LOVED to do what he did, but make the trailer just a bit bigger.



Source: RedJeepClub.com
#7
Just got back from Chandler, where I dropped my trailer off to Avis. We bounced some ideas and he gave me some pretty creative fix ideas. He gave me hope when he said that the trailer was not as bad as he thought it would be. Cool!
It's nice to find someone who has such a passion for trailers and the skill to go along with it! I have no doubt that this trailer will be a LOT better than it is right now.

Thanks Avis!
#8
This makes me happy. :-)
#9
I will try my best to remember progress pictures :)
#10
Avis wrote:I will try my best to remember progress pictures :)


Now, that would be awesome! A technical write-up! LOL. I will have to schedule myself to come down on Sundays to help out and maybe learn something. :)
#11
2ndchance wrote:Now, that would be awesome! A technical write-up! LOL. I will have to schedule myself to come down on Sundays to help out and maybe learn something. :)


lol good luck getting me to work on a Sunday haha I"ll just let you lose with the welder :)
#12
ha ha. you'd have better results letting Beavis & Butthead run around with that welder. I don't know the first thing about welding!

#13
hahahaha What better way to learn then on your trailer?!
#14

IMAG0374 by Cluless2466, on Flickr
#15
So good.
#16
Man, that's looking good. Yet, it brings a sad tear to my eye. That pic just shows what a poor decision I made when I purchased the trailer. I mean, just to build what is in that pic, probably is less than $100 of steel, $80 for an axle, $40 for hubs, and $30 for springs. That would have come to $250. I paid WAY to much for that trailer. I'm thankful to have Daniel to help me bring this trailer to a "better than I bought it" state. Thanks man!
#17
Today, my 2" wheel spacers came in. They'll convert the 6x5.5 to 5x5, so the trailer will share the same tire as my Jeep JK.



Last week, I picked up some matching tires/rims to go on the trailer.



New fenders should be delivered to Daniel this week. I will have to plan a trip to see him and drop off these new parts.
#18
Glad to see new parts to play with! I'll need those before I can do anything with the fenders. Also, I'm going to need a new hitch.. http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-572-h0222500317.aspx Something like that, make sure it is for a 2 1/2 inch channel other wise it won't fit, Harbor Freight should have what you need..

Also, saftey chain, but I'm pretty sure I have two brandnew saftey chains hanging on my tool box.. I'll check when I get home. When you come down, bring your jeep so I can line some stuff up with it.
#19
#20
Avis wrote:I'm going to need a new hitch.. http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-572-h0222500317.aspx Something like that, make sure it is for a 2 1/2 inch channel other wise it won't fit, Harbor Freight should have what you need..

Also, saftey chain, but I'm pretty sure I have two brandnew saftey chains hanging on my tool box.. I'll check when I get home. When you come down, bring your jeep so I can line some stuff up with it.


Hitch coupler purchased. With luck, I will come by on Sunday and drop off the items and I will bring my jeep.