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D30 Spartan Locker Install
#1
So about a week ago I installed a Spartan Locker in the front of my 94 ZJ. Start to finish the install took about 2 hours. I didnt take alot of pics but the explanation will be enough to help you through the entire job.
Step one of removal:
Jack rig up and place a jack stand under each side of of the front differential under the control arms. Lower rig down and place jack off to the side. Remove both front wheels. Get a drain pain for gear oil you will be draining from the front diff. Remove all but one of the differential cover bolts. The reason for this is to prevent from making a huge mess when draining the gear oil from the diff. Slightly loosen he one left over bolt at the top of the cover. Let all gear oil drain from the diff. One drained remove the last bolt.

Step two of removal:
Remove both driver and passenger brake calipers. The calipers may be held on by either a 13mm headed bolt or a 12 point 10mm headed bolt. Remove the two bolts. After removing the two caliper bolts the caliper can be removed. Now there is a really good chance you will need a pry bar to help pop the caliper loose from the rotor. The caliper only comes out one way. You will notice when looking at the brake pads that one end of the pad has a c shape at one end and the other is like an L shape. You will take a small pry bar and put it between the caliper and the rotor and pry upwards. Once this is free you can get a bungy cord or a metal coat hanger and hang the caliper off of one of the holes in the fender well. Now remoe the rotor and set off to the side.

Step Three of removal:
Now you be looking at bare hubs with the axles bolted to them. Leave the center nut on the axle. this will aleaveate an extra step that is not necessary for this removal and installation of the carrier assembly. Now you will look at the back side of the spindle, there you will see three 13mm 12 point bolts. Those three bolts are what hold the hubs and axles into the differential. Remove those three bolts, depending on the rear of your rig you will have an Anti-lock brake sensor that bolts to the front side of the spindle. Remove the bolt/s for the sensor and remove the sensor from the mounting hole. You can just leave this hanging, this will cause no issues and not be in your way. Now you will most likely have to use decent size hammer to tap on the hub on the back side where the wheel mounts to the hub. This will free it from a corrosion seal or possibly a little rust that is holding it in place. You are not going to pull the asles all the way out. Just pull the axle and hubs outwards until the axle is hanging out. This will not cause any harm.

Step Four of removal:
Now once you have remove the axles and hubs the fun starts. there are four 5/8" headed bolts that hold the carrier main caps in place. I would recommend loosing these bolts a small amount on each bolt at a time. As you loosen these bolts you will notice the carrier and ring gear will begin to fall. When you fully remove the main cap bolts you will want to keep those caps in the exact same direction as removed. The caps actually only go on one way and if you install them incorrectly it will cause premature bearing failure. Now remove the carrier, you will notice that the bearing races will fall out, not to worry these only go on one way and you cant mess them up. You are about halfway done at this point. When you have the carrier removed you will see four gears, those are call spider gears. In the center of the carrier you will see a large round steel pin that holds everything together. You will need to knock the roll pin out. The best way to do this is to put down a nice thick towel as to not damage the bearing during hammer the roll pin out. Now you will need a roll pin removal tool and a good heavy hammer. You will hit the roll pin out from the top side (the top would be the side that has the bolt heads of the ring gear facing down.

Step five of removal:
Now that you have the ring gear removed you will remove all 10-12 of the ring gear bolts. Once you have those removed you will be able to to remoe the ring gear and set aside. Now that you have the ring gear and holding pin removed you will now be able to remove the spider gear from there home inside the carrier. All you have to do to remove the spider is rotate the main larger gears in either direction which will rotate the spider gear towards one of the two openings. Once these are removed you will be able to remove the main gears from the carrier. Now you will have a bare carrier. Now there is one step left before the locker can be installed. This is where you will need a air compressor and a grinder.

Step One of installation:
Now comes the teadeous fun of installing the Locker inside the carrier. You will notice when you a put the two main gears of the locker in the carrier and attempt to put the locker assembly that it will not fit through the factory size hole in the carrier. You will need a carbide grinding bit and grinder to open the hole to install the locker in the carrier. now as you grind this you will want to take periodic breaks to test fit the locker as to not grind away to much of the carrier. Now as you grind you will have alot of metal throughout the carrier. I recommend getting at least two to three cans of break cleaner to ensure you can clean this up well. Now after you you get the hole opened larger enough to install the carrier you will take the assemble of the carrier and press it into place in the carrier assembly. This is where pics would have helped alot but my digi camera took a crud on me. There are some pics online to show how the locker goes together if you did not receive already assembled. Or call me and I will be happy to exlpain in detail.


Step two of installation:
Once you have installed the locker assembly in the carrier you will reinstall the large round pin and roll pin to keep every thing together. You will hammer the roll pin back in the the same way that you hammered it out as you will see there is a cone shapped area in the carrier that will help the roll pin go in easily. Once the roll pin is installed you will want to clean up the ring gear bolts with the brake cleaner to remove all oil. You will want to put some red lock tite on the bolt threads and then reinstall the ring gear on the carrier. Once you have all the bolts with lock tite finger tight you will now want to torque those bolts down to 65 foot pounds. Make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated so that these are not under or over torqued.

Step three of Installation:
Now comes the installation of the carrier assembly back into the differential housing. Now remember in the begining I mentioned that you needed to keep the main caps facing the same as removed, here is where that is important. Put the bearing races back on the bearings. Now holding the carrier by both ends while holding the races in place put the carrier assembly back in the diff as removed. While holding the carrier in place get one of the main caps and bolts and clean up the bolts real quick and put some red lock-tite on the threads and install. Put them in finger tight then follow the same steps on the other side. Now these four bolts will get torqued to 60ft lbs. Now once you have these bolts torqued you are about 80% done with this job. Now you can reinstall the axles and hubs as removed. Bolt the hubs back in place and reinstall rotors and calipers.

Step four of installation:
Now get yourself a razor blade of a cleaning disc for your grinder to clean up the diff cover and mounting area. Now i recommend using a small bead of Ultra Copper silicone sealant on the diff cover before installing. Now re-install the differential cover and remove the fill plug using a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove the plug. Get yourself three bottle of 85-90 synthetic gear lube and fill til flowing out of the fill hole. Re-install the fill plug, put wheels and tires back on and remove jack stands. Take a test drive and admire the job you just finished that would have cost you about 600 dollars in labor to have done. Congrats you now have completed your own locker install. Keep in mind that when you turn left or right while driving you will hear some clicking that is ok totally normal.

WOOO HOOOO you are done. If you need any help at all please feel free to call me at six0two-6OH6-five22three if you need any help or have any questions at all.
#2
nice write up Bill! Post pics of the ZJ, I don't think I've seen it.
#3
Thanks matt! I will post some up. I just lifted another 2" today so its at a total 5.5" lift.
#4
Great Write up!!!

One Question. With pulling carrier out and the ring gear off do you need to worry about the backlash settings?

thanks!
#5
Thanks, I found as long as you put it back together as taken apart with the factory torque specs there are no issues. At least i havent experience any at this point. I have wheeled it three or four times since the install.