Its looking like it may be time for some new rubber for the heep... and the truck... and the trailer. 8|

I have a few extra tires for the trailer so no big deal... The truck I need to find something a little bigger than what’s on there. Im only getting 12mpg now soooo whats 11mpg when you can look cool. :cool)

The heep... Well I put it on the trailer and snuged it down only to find that two of my tires have a big old slice in them that show cord...
Good thing for the Discount warranty. Im going to have discount look at the other two tires too and see if any of the rock rash is good enough to kill the tire.

Now the point of all this… if I do end up with a new set of 37’s I am going to sell them off and look for something a little different… I just don’t know what yet. Whats the next tire I should try?

baja claws!


or maybe the trepador

:)=)

alanzona wrote:

:)=)

hah those look like what we have on the mazda 3

Hell Bob, try the Treps or the Creepys.

You wantin to spend the dough on something "Sticky" or just regular old thick sidewall bias?

Dozzer wrote:Hell Bob, try the Treps or the Creepys.

You wantin to spend the dough on something "Sticky" or just regular old thick sidewall bias?

No on the sticky... My jeep couldn't take it.

fatbob309 wrote:No on the sticky... My jeep couldn't take it.

Hell if you need some rollers while you sell yours, you can put my 35" claws on there for awhile.

I'd say some Creepy's might work out best for you. Keep an eye on pirate man. There are some hella steals for 37's on that board.

Bob - can your Jack do a layman's breakdown of a "sticky" vs. regular off road tire for the rest of us. I understand the "sticky" from context and how they are used in sentences, but I don't really have a technical understanding of what makes them "different" or better. I'm assuming a softer rubber compound or something that helps the tire get better grip/traction, but that's just an assembled guess...

Thanks in advance.

Also, sorry to pile on, but why couldn't your Jeep (which is the mecca of built Jeeps and bad ace drivers to those of us on THIS board... so we have trouble understanding you not being able to do anything, because you can do everything...) handle a "sticky" tire? What would you have to do different to be able to run them?

alanzona wrote:Bob - can your Jack do a layman's breakdown of a "sticky" vs. regular off road tire for the rest of us. I understand the "sticky" form context and how they are used in sentences, but I don't really have a technical understanding of what makes them "different" or better.

Thanks in advance.

In our world there are basically 3 kinds of tires. You have your Radials which are the MT/R's, Baja Claws, BFG's, Pro Comps, etc.... Obviously these tires are going to be your weakest in terms of what we do, but will last the longest on a daily driven rig that sees a lot of street miles. Usually no more than a 3 ply sidewall.

Then you have your Bias Ply tires like Baja Claws, Most Swampers, Maxxis Creepys and Treps, etc.... These are a much stronger tire made from softer material and have no belts in them at all. You sacrifice road worthiness for sidewall strength and flexibility. Tendancies here range around a 4 to 10 ply sidewall.

The end of the line is the Competition or "Sticky" versions of the tires. The compounds that these tires are made from are CONSIDERABLY softer than even the Bias Ply tires. These are not meant for pavement driving at all. These tires will virtually melt to the surface you are running them on. These tires include the BFG Krawler (Red Label), Baja Claws, Maxxis 8090 Treps, Interco now has an IROK in a stickier compound. This will be your strongest, yet most expensive version of any tire. The comp. Treps run like 750 a piece if you can even get a hold of a set.


And don't let Bob fool you. His rig could handle some stickies. However you will have a tendancy to break lesser parts on there. I've been running my sticky Claws for about 2 and a half months now and I haven't broken anything. But don't let that fool you. I know that on my little Dana 30 i'm runnin on borrowed time even with Chromo's. They have a tendancy to eat up D30 ring gears. :D My tires are much much heavier than my radial claws. Plus they are 37's so there is just more rolling mass. These tires are specifically why Woody now runs a Spidertrax Tru-High 9 in his XJ. He blew up about 7 front ring gears after he went to stickies. :D

Next time you see mine, Joes, Lances or Rick's rig some where squeeze the tread on the tires and then go and squeeze the tread on your own tires. The difference is very evident.

Here is a pic of a Comp Claw and one of a Radial Claw. Just from the pics you can tell the differences in the compound and the mold of the tires.

Baja Claw Radial


Competition Claw

from what Ive seen with bias tires and stickies you have allot better chance of breaking shafts and ujoints. The tires grip the rocks better so the energy (torque?) looks for the weakest point

I forget what spline count Bob is running with his axle shafts

Thank you oh fountain of knowledge... (seriously, thank you for taking the time to answer such a fundamental question. I appreciate it and that was actually very, very helpful. It's good to feel "safe" asking dork questions. Chris, that was very helpful too... what spline count is a minimum, along with rear dif, to run stickies, etc?)

alanzona wrote:Thank you oh fountain of knowledge... (seriously, thank you for taking the time to answer such a fundamental question. I appreciate it and that was actually very, very helpful. It's good to feel "safe" asking dork questions. Chris, that was very helpful too... what spline count is a minimum, along with rear dif, to run stickies, etc?)

No problem Alan. People don't learn unless they ask someone that they are confident will give them the best answer or at least point them in the right direction.

I wouldn't say that there is a "minimum" axle that you could run with a certain tire. Hell Ryan and I were talking about a place in California last night that for 1500 a piece will make custom 300M axle shafts. If you had 27 spline 300M shafts and a 300M ring and pinion you'd have axle internals that were way stronger than a dana 60. Just your next problem is going to come from just exploding your housing.

If you are going to be running bias tires to feel comfortable wheeling you will probably want to have minimum of 27 spline Chromoly shafts up front with upgraded ujoints (I run Yukon Super Joints), and D44 or 8.8 30 or 31 spline chromoly shafts in the rear. The rear is the most important as that see's the most load between your two axles.

In the near future I will be upgrading my rear 44 to 35 spline shafts and a spool. This will effectively give me dana 60 axle strength, but running a D44 pumpkin and gears. The front I have no idea what I'm going to do with yet. I have about a million ideas, but haven't come to anything specific yet.

Prime example here is between Chuck and Hackle. Hackle is running 40" Sticky IROKS on his Dana 60 drivetrain. Chucks new buggy is running 40" Red Label Krawlers with a 4 cylinder and Dana 44's front and rear. There is a huge difference in the weight and hp of the two rigs. Chuck can run those tires because his buggy has been designed to be light and maneuverable so odds are he's going to have a lot less breakage if I was running 40" tires on my 44 drivetrain.

I want to find some 31's to run while I am looking for my next set of 37's... then I am going to take my jeep to the track and see what it will do.:)g)

Dozzer wrote:In the near future I will be upgrading my rear 44 to 35 spline shafts and a spool. This will effectively give me dana 60 axle strength, but running a D44 pumpkin and gears. The front I have no idea what I'm going to do with yet. I have about a million ideas, but haven't come to anything specific yet.

Let us know when you upgrade your rear shafts; we eventually want to upgrade to the chromollies for our 44 if timing and price is right...are you running the yukon's or the alloy's right now

Silversides wrote:Let us know when you upgrade your rear shafts; we eventually want to upgrade to the chromollies for our 44 if timing and price is right...are you running the yukon's or the alloy's right now

No problem Jonothan. You'll be first in line. I got them for a helluva deal so I'll repay the same favor. I'm running Alloy USA chromo's now. I know I've warrantied out the driver side, but the passenger side is still good.

You all do have a drum brake 44 right?

Dozzer wrote:No problem Jonothan. You'll be first in line. I got them for a helluva deal so I'll repay the same favor. I'm running Alloy USA chromo's now. I know I've warrantied out the driver side, but the passenger side is still good.

You all do have a drum brake 44 right?

Thanks Jack! Yep, drums.

37" creepies up for sale on the other board
http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?t=35522

Hmmmm... To bad I don't have any $