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Mallcrawler damage (brake tube problem)
#1
So, after crawling a 4.0 parking lot this morning I noticed I had some more mall damage. Looks like my brake line got pinched between the swaybar and the frame causing it to break. The part that broke isnt the hose, but the metal tubing that comes from the master cylinder to the hose.

Guess it could have been worse, luckily it happend in a parking lot and not on the freeway or street.

Heres a quick vid of the fluid spraying out
#2
Sorry I can't see the video on my laptop. What side broke and I'm kind of drawing a blank on how the sway bar could bring that much pressure on that line to actually snap it.
#3
Dozzer wrote:Sorry I can't see the video on my laptop. What side broke and I'm kind of drawing a blank on how the sway bar could bring that much pressure on that line to actually snap it.


yah the brake line is suppose to stay mounted to the top of the frame, my clips that hold it in place broke allowing it to slide down to the side of the rail and it got caught on the swaybar right at the top of the disconnects

ill take a pic in a little while and post it up
#4
Heres a pic of the brake tubing. When it broke the tube wasnt on the top of the frame, it had slid down on the side causing the swaybar to rub against it creating the whole
#5
anyone know what size tubing that is? My choices are 3/8 or 5/16
#6
Maybe?

All three hoses have the same connectors. At the frame, the connector is for 3/16 brake line tube which has 3/8 inch thread diameter by 24 threads per inch (3/8 -24). There is a mounting bracket to secure the connector to the frame
#7
skatchkins wrote:Maybe?


hmm Ill check that out too, I posted it up on the azvjc, hopefully someone on there has done it before
#8
Chris, was it the driver side? That will be your shortest one and easiest to replace (hoping). You might want to call the dealership about it. I got a replacement rear hard line from Earnhardts and it was only 12 bucks. Way easier than having to flare and bend new tubing.
#9
Dozzer wrote:Chris, was it the driver side? That will be your shortest one and easiest to replace (hoping). You might want to call the dealership about it. I got a replacement rear hard line from Earnhardts and it was only 12 bucks. Way easier than having to flare and bend new tubing.


Yep it was drivers side. Ill call around to the dealerships today too
#10
You don't know how Chris works. ;)

  1. Search the net for a week on different kinds
  2. Buy a spool of 300yds of teflon injected brake line
  3. Receive it 2 weeks later
  4. Realize it's the wrong size
  5. Find a place in the garage to keep the wrong spool indef
  6. Complain for a month about the Jeep
  7. Buy 5 specialty tools for making your own custom tubing
  8. Recieve it 2 weeks later
  9. Ask someone to help figure out the tools
  10. Find out it won't work
  11. Add the specialty tools to collection
  12. Complain for a month about the Jeep
  13. Then go to the dealer for the part
#11
skatchkins wrote:You don't know how Chris works. ;)

  1. Search the net for a week on different kinds
  2. Buy a spool of 300yds of teflon injected brake line
  3. Receive it 2 weeks later
  4. Realize it's the wrong size
  5. Find a place in the garage to keep the wrong spool indef
  6. Complain for a month about the Jeep
  7. Buy 5 specialty tools for making your own custom tubing
  8. Recieve it 2 weeks later
  9. Ask someone to help figure out the tools
  10. Find out it won't work
  11. Add the specialty tools to collection
  12. Complain for a month about the Jeep
  13. Then go to the dealer for the part


Oh man that's messed up. :)) I always give advice based on my method. GETTING MY BUTT BACK ON THE TRAIL AS SOON AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE. :)g)
#12
Lolololololololol
#13
Wow... thats sad funny and true.
#14
so back on topic. Anyone know what size tubing I need?
#15
3/16" is the common jeep size IIRC.


I tore one of those lines up when i was installing my lift. They sell the line at autozone and a little tool that bends it for you. I think it was really cheap. Just make sure your fittings are on the tube correctly before you flare the ends of the tube. Otherwise you'll be starting over from scratch


also if you cant use the old line for a template - a metal coathanger works great for making a pattern


Source: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/cj-yj-tj-jk/21287-oem-rear-brake-lines.html
#16
There's a few pics here of a guy doing a MC install but he had to flange the brake lines. Says they were 3/16: http://www.jeepaholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47417

Guess the tool can be rented from AZ or bought for $10 at HF
#17
thanks

I found stu has a rightup on flaring lines too. Ill check the jeepaholics site at home, its blocked from work
#18
Chris, it looks like you are going to be better off getting some tubing and fittings and flaring them yourself. I just called a couple dealerships I have in my phone real quick and it looks like the part you need runs about 30 bucks and they have to get it from Milwaukee and were telling me about 10 days.
#19
Thanks for the help everyone, went to Napa on the weekend and picked up the 3/16 tubing and rented a double flare tool. Took a little time to get the flares right but got it done.
#20
good to here chris