Reasons we chose this product: Jeep was tiny 4in to fit her old Jeep's tires Refutable company Comes with extra stuff included

        Dana's Jeep

Front- Removal

• First thing you need to do is get your Jeep up in the air.  We raised the front end as high as we could, then set the frame on jack stands and put the jack under the front axle so we could droop the suspension as much as possible.

• Disconnect your front driveshaft at the axle (mark the their relationship so you reinstall it the same way).

• Remove your control arms (again, make a mark where the lower bolt (cam bolt) is positioned).

• Remove the shocks

• Remove the sway bar links.  The axle side comes off easy, but the other end is going to need some muscle.  Don't be timid about beating the mess out of the ball joint end with a pickle fork and hammer, it will eventually come off

• Now you can really droop that axle to get those stock springs out.  If they are even still there, there may be a clip "holding" the spring on at the bottom you'll need to remove.

• The track bar is next to go.  You can use the puller you rented or you can just pickle fork the ball joint on it to death since you won't be reusing the bar.

• Now get to work on the Pitman arm.  These can be a real nightmare to get off, but you can soak it ahead of time with Liquid Wrench if needed.  This one came off relatively easy with the two pullers.

Front - Installation

Tine for the new goodies!

The first thing you need to do is assemble the bushings into the ends of the new control arms.  You may need a little grease and a press (we used a C-clamp) to get the bushing sleeves in.    When installing the arms the welded part goes right side up and close to the frame (see pic).  Use the original hardware to mount them, noting your cam bolt markings.

Cam bolts - 85 ft/lbs

Frame bolts - 130 ft/lbs

The new longer pitman arm is next.  Install with original nuts, but it's a good idea to replace the cotter pin. Steering gear nut - 185 ft/lbs Drag link nut - 60 ft/lbs

**Tip: When removing the drag link nut, the puller actually warped the top threads of the stud as a result of the pressure that was being exerted downward on it causing the the nut to no longer thread on.  To make it work again, we were forced to file the damaged threads down.  We placed a spacer over the good threads to keep them from being damaged during the filing.  Once filed, the nut started without a problem.  This is probably not a common occurrence, be we thought the information might prove useful to someone else.

Now you need to drill a couple holes to mount the bump stops to the spring pads.  These are used to keep your Jeep from overflexing and ripping off your fenders among other things.  This is where an angle drill could come in handy, but we've never needed it.  The hole you're supposed to drill is 11/32" so that way you can use the self tapping bolts provided to hold the stops in place.  But, if you've got a standard drill set, chances are you don't have this size.  The reason for the use of the self tapper is that because of all the steering braketry beneath the passenger side's spring pad, it hard to get a nut underneath for a regular bolt- hard... yes, but impossible... no.  After doing a couple lifts, we've found it's easier to just forgo the tappers and just drill the hole out to 3/8" and slap a lock nut on the other end.  Done and done.

*But wait!  There's no point in fighting the spring over the bump stops while trying to stuff them in.  So, we just place the stop inside the spring, and then tighten it down into place after the spring's in by sticking a socket wrench through the coils.

Spring Time!

Okay, no your eyes are not decieving you, these springs are bright bright yellow.  Dana wanted them to match her Jeep and scoff all you want, I'll think you'll find it hard to dislike the end result.  By the way, don't even bother asking Full Traction if you can have your springs painted any other color than black, they'll act as though you just asked if you could defile their mother, for free.  Dana decided to fork out the extra dough and had these babies stripped down and repowercoated at a local shop here. Don't expect these new springs to just slip in.  We always prefer to do it the manly way and not use a compressor.  It's really not all that hard to do though as long as you leave the side you're working on drooped while jacking up the other side.  The second one is harder of course, but as long as you don't install the bump stops and maybe remove the rubber bumper too, it ain't no biggy.  I think the hardest part was having a little girl watch over your shoulder making sure you didn't scratch any of her yellow paint off.  I actually ended up leaving the springs wrapped in that foam paper they cam from the powdercoater's in on to keep any nicks from occurring.

Shocks

Like we said before, we got the package deal that included FT's FS5100 shocks

Before installation, like the control arms, you must first do a little assemblage with the bushings and bracket hardware. *Ghetto mechanics tip: We had quite the time getting the bushing and the hardware in.  We had no luck getting them in separately so we put the hardware in the bushing and then tried getting the combo into the shock eye.  We actually figured out an easy way of doing this.  Pressing it only made the hardware slip out of the bushing, so we pulled it in.  We placed a small socket extensions through each of the bracket's holes.  The bottom one kept the bracket from slipping through the bushing, and the top one enabled us to pull the whole assembly through to the middle of the shock eye.

Upper nut - 17 ft/lbs

Lower nuts - 20 ft/lbs

You can put your new sway bar links on now.  The offset side goes at the bottom, but it'll be apparent which way they go when you start to put them on.

Top nut - 30 ft/lbs

 ft/lbs

Now you have to add all those spacers to your center skid.  With any lift (with out a SYE) you have to do this step.  This is because when you lift everything up, your transfer case goes up with it.  This causes your driveshaft to be at too steep of an angle and that's begging for trouble.  You'll have to keep those spacers there lowering your transfer case (and robbing you of ground clearance) until you add a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new longer driveshaft.  Make sure when you do this step, you support your transmission with a jack (we add a 2x4 between the two to spread the pressure out at the pan).

Bolts - 55 ft/lbs

There's one more small step before you move on to the rear.  You kit came with 2 odd shaped brackets.  They are for extending your front brake lines to allow for all that outrageous flex you'll be achieving.  Most kits come with extended brake lines you can add on, but your Jeep actually already has enough length, and you can utilize it by pulling the lines down a bit and re-securing them with FT's brackets.  Your stock brake line bracket actually mounts to FT's allowing the drop.

Okay, you're done with the front for now!  You'll be back to add the track bar and brackets after finishing the rear.  Go ahead and throw your driveshaft back on and even your wheels if you want, and move on back.

Rear - Removal

All right, you've been here before, you know what to do.  Get the rear in the air by the frame and keep the jack on the axle.  Wheels come off again.  Removing the rear driveshaft helps too.

• Remove the lower control arms.

• Remove the rear track bar

• Get rid of the rear sway bar links

• Take off the rear shocks

• Now you can droop the rear axle the same way and yank out the stock springs.

Rear - Installation

The instructions call for you to install the lower control arms and new sway bar links first, but it's much easier to get the springs in first.  So we'll move on to the track bar steps and come back to all that stuff post springs.

*You can get the control arms ready by inserting the sleeves and bushings and then halfway installing them and the sway bar links by their high side.  Remember on the new arms: the welded part up and closest to the frame side.

You are going to reuse the old track bar, but install a bracket to lift it higher up.  The bracket it going to fixed into postion in a couple of ways.  You old track bar bracket had a dust cover on that you must remove.  That cover was held on by two plastic pegs.  You will be using the holes that the pegs were inserted into, but you'll have to drill them out a little larger.  Before you do, go ahead and put the bracket on using the original star bolt and place the provided spacer (it looks like one of the ones you used on the center skid but longer) on the bolt between the bracket and frame.  This will keep the empty space where the track bar used to be from crushing and compromising the new bracket.  Now the small peg holes should just about line up with the predrilled holes in the new bracket.  You can drill them out now to accept the provided 3/8" grade 8 bolts.  You can finishing mounting the track bar after getting the springs in.

Existing star bolt - 74 ft/lbs

Lower nuts - 20 ft/lbs

You can get the bump stop extensions on after installing the springs as well, as long as you get them into position inside the springs.  A longer bolt is provided to accommodate the spacer. 27 ft/lbs

Spring Time!

Muscle up the rear springs into position at this time.  Check for any hose binding, but you should be able to do some axle tipping like you did in the front to get them in.  If you didn't install the bump stops yet, get on it.  Now you can go back to the arms and links.

The links are easy enough to get on, but the control arms require a bit of trickery.

*Tip:  In order to get the arms on now that the springs are having their way with the axle, you'll need to tilt the differential pinion angle up.  This can be done by simply putting another jack, not on the yoke, but near the front of the pumpkin.  Jack it up and watch the arms line right up.

Link ends - 40 ft/lbs

Arm nuts - 130 ft/lbs

Shocks:

*Tip:  You're going to have to press in the bushings and brackets again.  Maybe you can come up with something better, but here at the Ghetto Mechanic Shop we had to come up with another new technique.  We used a large C-clamp (we so need to invest in a shop press) and pressed the bushing through "catching it" in a large socket.  The socket allowed the clamp to push against the shock eye and accept the bushing/bracket while we pressed it in from the other side.  We used small vise grip to keep the bracket from just sliding through the bushing.  Hey, whatever works, right?  One more thing: make sure you put the boot on before you put the b/b in!

Upper nut - 17 ft/lbs

Lower nuts - 20 ft/lbs

The last step is you need to finish up installing the track bar fully.  It should go up with no problem.

37 ft/lbs

Wow, that went fast!  You're so close to being done!  All that there is left is the new track bar and bracketry for the front.  Throw on the wheels, grab a drink and admire your work and your "new" Jeep.

Front Track Bar and Bracketry - Installation

The included instructions for this part of the install became awfully hazy.  The setup itself though is extremely cool.  Most lifts don't come with this amount extra stuff.  RE's adjustable track bar alone costs an extra $200 on top of their lift.  So yes I believe that the extra workmanship FT put into this part of their suspension kits totally sets them apart from most companies.

	You're going to have to get the drill out again.  You're also going to need a big ol' 9/16" drill bit.  But don't run out and by one if you are lacking.  Just borrow one from your neighbor.  You'll only need to drill for a couple of seconds because you're just enlarging the tapered hole your old track bar ball joint stud came out of.  Bit won't even get hot. After you've returned the drill bit, look back up under your Jeep.  Further up front along the frame past the hole you just worked on, there's a oval shaped hole on the bottom of the frame.  Slide the tube (bracket guide rod) that's on the bracket into it and then install the the 9/16th x 2.5" bolt into the bracket through your drilled hole.  Tighten it so it holds the bracket in place (90 ft/lbs) Now stay with me.  Put a 1/2" bit on your drill.  You are going to actually slide the bit through that rod you pushed up into the frame.  Now you will be able to drill into the top of the frame to provide for the 5" bolt that will go through the rod.  Washer and nut it at 75 ft/lbs Assemble the track bar by pressing in the bushings and the sleeve.  You can put the track bar in the bracket and the brace on the outside using the 1/2 x 3.5" bolt. You get to do the same thing to the frame on the passenger side next.  Insert brace's guide rod into the frame hole and drill into the top of the frame.  Then put the other 5" bolt in to secure the brace rod (75 ft/lbs). *Tip: It was difficult to fit the drill in between the frame and the steering components to drill the hole, so we lifted the frame of the Jeep giving us more room when the suspension began to flex. Move along to the axle bracket where the old track bar mounted.  You're going to have to enlarge this hole to 1/2".  Assemble this end of the track bar with the "Misalignment Spacers" (big shiny spacer thingies), and get ready to hook up this end of the track bar.  You need to adjust the threaded end to where it needs to be before installing it.  You can do this by making sure the Jeep is level and on the ground and then making sure the front axle is where it needs to be.  If you measure how far each front wheel is from it's flare you can see if it needs to move some.  We didn't have to adjust it this time, but it can be done by getting the weight off the axle by putting a jack on the frame then shoving it left or right. After getting the track bar the length that we wanted we secured it with the 1/2" x 2.5" bolt.  The nut was hard to get to, but we were able to manipulate a vice grip to hold it. Wait a second, is the track bar on now?  Wasn't that the last step?  Does that mean?... I think it does.  Wow, we're totally done!

So now we're done.  The install took only a couple days, but then the waiting for a part to come in took a week and a half.  While a big problem, it was the only one.   I wish FT could have taken care of the issue before it developed into a problem, but oh well.  I do have to note though, that after witnessing FT's lack of service and commitment, Chris took FT's 6in long arm kit off his to do list.

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